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Destination Guide: India

Nothing can fully prepare you for India, but perhaps the one thing that best encapsulates this extraordinary country is its ability to inspire, frustrate, thrill and confound all at once.

India is one of the planet's most multidimensional countries, presenting a wildly diverse spectrum of travel encounters. Some of these can be challenging, particularly for the first-time visitor: the poverty is confronting, Indian bureaucracy can be exasperating and the crush of humanity sometimes turns the simplest task into an energy-zapping battle. Even the most experienced travellers find their sanity frayed at some point, yet this is all part of what makes India a unique travel destination. If you haven't visited this part of the globe before, set aside the first few days to simply acclimatise to the subcontinent's bamboozling symphony of sights, sounds, tastes and smells.

When it comes to finances, India pleases all pockets. Accommodation ranges from lacklustre backpacker lodgings to dazzling top-end hotels, with some delightful midrange possibilities that won't bust the bank. A delicious, multipriced array of eateries means you can fill your belly without spending a fortune, and it's possible to zip around economically as well thanks to the country's comprehensive public-transport network.

Get excited and knowledgeable about your trip beforehand by reading up on India, especially its cultural framework. Doing so will augment your appreciation of the subcontinent's sights and traditions and also better equip you to hold more informed conversations with locals. Allow a few weeks of pretrip preparation to sort out immunisations and visas. In terms of planning what to do once you arrive, the country's remarkable diversity can actually make it a veritable quagmire when nutting out itineraries. The key is to try not to squeeze in too much, as travelling often involves considerable distances and stamina. Also allow for some flexibility in case you stumble across an appealing side journey or merely find yourself frazzled and in need of a day or two purely to chill.

When to go

Climate plays a key factor in deciding when to visit India. You should keep in mind that climatic conditions in the far north are distinctly different to those of the extreme south. Generally speaking, India's climate is commonly defined by three seasons - the hot, the wet (monsoon) and the cool, each of which can vary in duration from north to south. The most pleasant time to visit most of the country is during the cooler period of November to around mid-February, although there are regional variations. Apart from the weather, the timing of certain festivals or special events may also influence when you want to visit India.

The Hot
The heat starts to build up on India's northern plains from around February, and by April or May it really hots up, peaking in June. In central India temperatures of 45*C and above are commonplace. South India also becomes uncomfortably hot during this time. Late in May the first signs of the monsoon are visible in some areas - high humidity, electrical storms, short rainstorms and dust storms that turn day into night. The hot season is the time to abandon the plains and head for the cooler hills, and this is when hill stations are at their best (and busiest).

The Wet
When the monsoon finally arrives, it doesn't just suddenly appear. After some advance warning the rain comes in steadily, generally starting around 1 June in the extreme south and sweeping north to cover the whole country by early July. The monsoon doesn't really cool things down; at first hot, dry and dusty weather is simply replaced by hot, humid and muddy conditions. It doesn't rain solidly all day, but it rains virtually every day; the water tends to come down in buckets for a while followed by the sun, creating a fatiguing steam bath-like environment. The main monsoon comes from the southwest, but the southeast coast (and southern Kerala) is largely affected by the short and surprisingly wet northeast monsoon, which brings rain from around October to early December.

The Cool
Around October the monsoon ends for most of the country, and this is when India sees most tourists - however, it's too late to visit Ladakh (May to October is the optimum period). During October and November it's generally not too hot and not too cool (although October can still be considerably humid in some regions). In the thick of winter (around mid-December to mid-January), Delhi and other northern cities can become astonishingly cold, especially at night. It certainly becomes bone-chillingly cold in the far north. In the far south, where it never gets truly cool, the temperatures become comfortably warm during this period.

What to take

  • A well-concealed money belt
  • Nonrevealing clothes (women and men) - essential for visiting sacred sites
  • Sunscreen lotion, lip balm and sunglasses
  • A small torch for poorly lit streets and for if the power fails
  • Good-quality earplugs to block out night din and for long bus/train journeys
  • Flip-flops (thongs) for communal or grotty bathrooms
  • A padlock and chain to secure hotel cupboards, and luggage onto train racks
  • Mosquito repellent (a mozzie net can also come in handy)

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